{"id":29,"date":"2005-10-09T21:09:39","date_gmt":"2005-10-10T05:09:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/?p=29"},"modified":"2017-10-22T21:01:28","modified_gmt":"2017-10-23T04:01:28","slug":"astroman-improved","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/2005\/10\/astroman-improved","title":{"rendered":"Astroman Improved"},"content":{"rendered":"

Updated in 2017:<\/strong> For more elaborate beta, check out my new post (12 years later):\u00c2\u00a0What I know about Astroman\u00e2\u20ac\u00a6 unsolicited beta<\/a><\/h2>\n

<\/a>Actually Astroman<\/a> is perfect the way it is — it doesn’t need improvement. But we do, and we did improve. Erik and I got back on the climb again this Saturday. We both did better than last time<\/a>. I only fell at the Boulder Problem. I’m not a boulderer! That’s my excuse, and most people do the 5.10a variation to avoid it. But Erik kept going up the hard way, so I had to follow. Oh, while cleaning a nut above the Changing Corners at a 5.9 section, my foot suddenly popped (I was so bummed that I even cursed once, which surprised Erik. heh heh). That was the only other time I weighed the rope on this climb. And I red-pointed the Enduro Corner! (I followed clean last time and I led it clean this time.) Ahh, that was the high point of the day for me. We finished the climb in 7 hours and 50 minutes (versus 10 hours and 10 minutes last time). Big improvement all in all. <\/span><\/p>\n

On Sunday, we went cragging at Cookie Cliff with Allen, Jesse, and Chris. Between a late start and an early departure, Erik led me up Outer Limits<\/a>, Hardd<\/a>, and Crack-a-go-go<\/a> (one fall). All are hard in their own ways. <\/span><\/p>\n

Beta: (added three and half years later in response to a friend’s questions)
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

We went extremely light when we did it both times. A few things I remember:<\/p>\n

1) One bottle of water each. (We used strings and duct tape to rig it so we can carry it on our harness with a biner;
\n2) No backpack. We each wore a small fanny pack just big enough for a couple of bars, a wind breaker, a wide rimmed hat, and a camera.
\n3) Usually, I’m not against wearing a helmet, but on Astroman, I wouldn’t wear one. Even if you drag it below you, it can turn into a chockstone in Harding Slot.
\n4) When I followed Harding Slot, I had everything clipped to a sling that I tied to my belay loop so they dangled below me. And I tied my knot far from my body.
\n5) We did not bring shoes and hiking down North Dome gully in climbing shoes did not seem to be a bad idea to me.<\/p>\n

This photo shows my setup pretty well:<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Photos<\/strong>: I didn’t take many photos. On the contrary, Erik took a lot of photos this time, including me leading Enduro Corner, following Harding Slots, and so on. Check them out at our gallery<\/a>. <\/span><\/p>\n

Here are just a few highlights:
\n\"P2270004.JPG\"<\/a> Mei leading the Enduro Corner.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_0017.JPG\"<\/a> Looking up at the Harding Slot<\/p>\n

\"P2270015.JPG\"<\/a> Mei entering the Harding Slot.<\/p>\n

\"P2270033.JPG\"<\/a> Inside the Harding slot.<\/p>\n

\"P2270060.JPG\"<\/a> One of those easier pitches higher above.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Updated in 2017: <\/strong>For more elaborate beta, check out my new post (12 years later):\u00c2\u00a0What I know about Astroman\u00e2\u20ac\u00a6 unsolicited beta<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Updated in 2017: For more elaborate beta, check out my new post (12 years later):\u00c2\u00a0What I know about Astroman\u00e2\u20ac\u00a6 unsolicited beta Actually Astroman is perfect the way it is — it doesn’t need improvement. But we do, and we did improve. Erik and I got back on the climb again this Saturday. We both did […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[69,65],"class_list":["post-29","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-climbing","tag-astroman","tag-yosemite"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=29"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3053,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29\/revisions\/3053"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=29"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=29"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mxi2000.net\/mudworm\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=29"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}