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A questionnaire was sent to a few relatively recent or current route developers at Pinnacles about their understanding of bolting ethics in Pinnacles, and if anything changes if a variation is being bolted. 

I might have had some obsolete email addresses. In the end, I received responses from six people. I will call them Developers A-E. I also took some excerpts out of the Pinnacles Guidebook on this topic.At the end, I also included a “response” from Generative AI. For the most part, the content here is a copy and paste, but I took the liberty of some minor editing to mask the identity of the author or to provide clarity. 

This document is a composition of the above responses. You will not see much discussion about rebolting or retrobolting. That is because I do not feel that there is ambiguity in those activities; thus I did not ask about it, but needless to say, ethics standards are held high there.

Developer A

General Ethics considerations

1. The main goal is to find a route with good enough climbing to be worth the negative impact of drilling and cleaning.

2. Rules like “all free” or “ground up”, “on lead” are used to make it more of a challenge and create a better adventure on the First Ascent. They are also supposed to help limit the number or pacing of new routes that are done.

3. The strictest people (Tom Higgins, Jack Holmgren) say no aid should be used. The later generation (Gagner, Bellizzi, McConachie, Davis, Rubine, me, etc.) say it’s OK to use aid (hooks, slings, gear that wouldn’t hold a fall), but on lead.  And cleaned on lead.

4. You are not supposed to “pre inspect” on rappel or clean on rappel prior to bolting on lead. But sometimes this happens naturally because you randomly notice the route while rapping off something else.

5. You are not supposed to clip gear on an adjacent route and hang on the rope to bolt.  It is too similar to being on rappel.

Bolting considerations

6. For bolt spacing, Jim McConachie said “the previous bolt should be below your feet”.  This rule could be bent a bit for a second bolt, as the second bolt on a good route needs to be close enough to the first to reduce risk of groundfall when close to the ground.

7. A bolt should be placed in good rock.  Tap on the rock with your hammer to check to see if it’s “hollow”. Usually you try to avoid placing a bolt in a knob/rhyolite chunk, because they fracture more easily. But sometimes a chunk will be below the surface; then drilling will take longer.

8. Bolts on a new route should not be easily clippable from an adjacent route.

9. Bolt location should have a fairly flat surface, so the hanger is flush with the surface.

Tips and Tricks

10. Usually after I place a bolt, I hang on it to gather up the gear, and then use a wire brush (or the wooden edge of the brush) to clean lichen from holds around it.  Try not to scrub “too hard” to the point where you see reddish orange rock instead of the normal gray surface color.

11. Then I’ll climb up and look for good holds, and the next place to hang from, cleaning as needed.  I’ll downclimb back to the bolt and hang more if needed. Some guys like Kelly Rich prefer to not hang on the bolt and keep it more free on lead.

12. Turn the drill about 30 degrees between each hammer hit.  Otherwise the hole can become

less round and more triangular, and it could become hard to turn the drill when the hole is deep. Take care when drilling to make sure the hole is at a 90 degree angle to the surface plane.

After about 1/2″ it becomes difficult to change the hole angle.

13. The Petzl RocPec drill holder, with 3/8″ or 10mm SDS bits is pretty good.

14. Drill the hole about 3/8″ deeper than the bolt length. When the bolt is hammered into the hole, this extra space makes some room for rock bits that will be scraped from inside the hole. Often people will put tape, nail polish or paint on their drill bit for this depth.

15. I recommend using ear plugs when drilling so your hearing does not suffer. They are more important on granite, where it is lower and takes longer.

16. If the aid hooks/slings are sketchy, you can “tie off” the drill bit (use cable from wired nut), after the hole is 3/4″ deep or so.  So it may catch you if the hook pops off.

17. As you drill, when too much rock dust accumulates in the hole, you can turn the bit more and pull it out, to eject the rock dust.  This will make it easier to turn again.

18. It make take 20 minutes, 40 minutes, or even an hour to drill a hole.  Most likely 20 minutes.

19. When the hole is deep enough, blow out the rock dust with a blow tube. Close your eyes when blowing, and then blow again with the tube near each eye to clear away rock dust. A “test tube cleaner” brush also helps.

20. Use Stainless 3/8″ x 3.5″ Rawl/Powerbolts.  These are a 5/16″ hex bolt in a sleeve with cone at bottom and a small blue compression sleeve near the head.  They are somewhat expensive.

There’s no need to use 1/2″, which are very slow to place. Shorter bolts like 2.25″ are too short.  3″ is fine, but is not available in stainless.

21. Wedge style bolts (full 3/8″ diameter, ring at bottom, hex nut at head) are available in stainless and cheaper and are good (at 2.25″) on granite. But they are not good for softer rock like Pinnacles or sandstone. The ring can fail to catch on the sides of the hole and then you can’t tighten it. They are also harder to remove. However, Davis and Rubine used them a lot, and they seem to work OK.

22. You should not use glue in the hole, although Holmgren did this. Glue makes them hard to remove, and it will trap moisture in the hole (maybe OK for stainless).

23. Do not belay directly below the leader. Knob footholds, flakes, etc. can break off and hit the belayer.

24. To help avoid groundfall, you can use a single locking biner on a critical (first) bolt,

    or a short draw with 2 locking biners. 

Developer B

I never bolted on rappel and never previewed a route.

I did occasionally back bolt while hanging on a rope after running it out to the top and deciding that more runout routes were not what was needed at Pinnacles (there are already plenty – and many are a shame/waste of good rock imo). On occasion, I also was stupidly? proud of my boldness and almost regretted the bolts I added. In the end, I decided that if you are going to create routes, try and make them something that others will enjoy. Climbing should be about fun – not stroking one’s ego (many climbers would not agree).

I don’t have a problem with doing variations of a route. I have even created variations of my own routes. As long as you are not changing the nature of the original route – it’s all fair game.

Most of the routes I created were meant to be led and followed. I never gave any consideration to creating something that could be lowered off of and often times did not install chains if there was another nearby rappel point. Besides, the rock (holds and stances or hooking spots) dictate what you can do.

Developer C

I think there is general consensus that people should continue to establish new routes at Pinnacles according to old-school ethics – ground up, on lead, with hand drilling. I agree with this approach and adhere to it as well. It’s also widely accepted that you can drill holes for new bolts while you are using aid like hooks, cams, slings off of knobs, etc. You do not need to drill from stance, as long as you climb ground up to drill. For most 5.10+ climbs, drilling from aid is absolutely essential because there are no hands-free stance options available… but the few folks establishing new routes at the park are generally not super comfortable drilling from hooks. 

A couple other considerations. First, the climbing community generally frowns upon establishing new routes right above official trails because of the danger of rock fall to visitors hiking below. Second, if the rock quality is not good, it’s worth considering if a new route should even be developed. I tend to be very picky about routes I develop because I don’t want to waste time, effort, and money on developing subpar routes. I’d prefer to build a legacy of establishing high-quality lines that are well protected and that many future climbers can enjoy.

Another thing to consider for route variations – it’s usually frowned upon to place bolts on alternate lines that are too close to existing routes. Usually the rule of thumb (at least in my mind) is that if bolts are going to be closer than 8 feet or so between a variation and an existing route, it’s probably too close. The concern is that newly placed bolts that are too close to existing lines infringe upon the historic routes and are confusing to climbers trying to figure out which lines of protection to follow.

It takes a lot of time to build the knowledge and mastery to drill holes, place bolts, and establish quality lines at Pinnacles. The old-school ethics, the dynamic nature of the rock here, and various other factors make for a steep learning curve in establishing routes safely and effectively at the park. Fortunately there are several people that are still active, friendly, and open to helping others – I’m sure any of us would be happy to help if you want.

Developer D

General Ethics Considerations

 Most importantly is to talk to the local developers and get an understanding of the local ethics. If you haven’t drilled before it’s important to find a mentor.

Mentors will teach you:

-drilling perpendicular 

-how to surface

-finding the best rock

-what to do when things don’t go to plan

Consider if it’s a meaningful addition to the area. A lot of the time I am finding routes that I think nobody will ever repeat and this is a harder one to say. 

Stemming from the last one, make sure you’re considering subsequent ascents. There have been several times we will run it out through a section you can’t get placements to hang on, then we will backbolt to make it safer for the next party to climb it.

Fully understand trad and aid climbing. Systems and placements are a large part of developing, it’s not sport climbing.

If you’re developing a line on an established formation, get a feel for the other lines there first. You don’t want to change the character of the area. Also self explanatory to repeat other routes on the formation and know exactly where you are. I’ve heard of people getting stoked on drilling and starting up a line only to realize they are on a run out historical route and now they are essentially retrobolting.

Many bolts can be safe but unsightly to others. Make sure you do the best workmanship possible. I have gone back and chopped and replaced bolts I placed due to their look.

Regarding variation: I would say make sure it’s not a squeeze job.

If you can use the same set of anchors that’s great so there is less metal in the rock but also make sure you’re not changing the nature of the route previously there.

RESPECT the local/historical ethics.

Tips and Tricks

Use only 3/8”+ stainless.

Consider the rock and type of bolt you are placing. I will range from 2.75” in really good rock(for pinnacles) to 3.75. 5 piece or double wedge for when the rock is bad and you have no choice.

If you’re placing a bolt unless it’s a stance right after a crux or very hard make sure your feet are over the previous bolt when drilling a new one.

Developer E

Do’s and don’ts for bolting in Pinnacles?

1.  Bolting at the Pinnacles is done ground up using a hand drill.
2. For me all forms of trickery while on aid are fine.
3. Hooks, buy all available
4. slings be as creative as possible
5. In general, I strive to get my feet above the last bolt before putting in the next bolt.
6. Find the good rock which is sometimes difficult.  Tap around with a hammer, nice solid rock has a distinctively crisp sound.
7. Don’t jump lines
8. All bolts should be 3/8″ by 3″ stainless with stainless hangers.  (no short bolts, ever).
9. The one exception to the no short bolt rule is when bolting from stance and it has gotten a bit hairy.  Then put in a short bolt but go and replace the shorty with a proper bolt.
10. Using a blow tube typically makes drilling much easier and results in a better hole.
11. Keep your hand as steady as possible so the drill does not wander.
12. Rotate the drill after every hammer strike.
13. The drill should be perpendicular to the rock so the bolt and hanger lay flat.
14. Typically, it is not good to put bolts into loadstones or cobbles.  Find good solid matrix.
15. Top roping a line before doing a ground up ascent is generally considered bad form.
16. Try not to sleep too soundly while belaying.
17. If you tie off the lead while he/she is drilling, try not to wander off too far.
18. Belayer is limited to one beer per hour.

Anything changes if this is for a new variation of a route, i.e. they share an anchor?

No changes

For me a variation should be over a full arms span away.  (don’t crowd).

Distinction between bolting, rebolting, and retro bolting.

Bolting is establishing a new route, and it is up to the bolter to establish the character of the route.

Rebolting is removing an old bolt and replacing it with a new bolt.

The new bolt should go into the same hole if at all possible.

If not possible the bolt should be as close to the old hole as possible and one should do all that is possible not to change the character of the route.

The old bolt hole should be filled and patched.

Retro Bolting is adding or moving bolts on an existing route.

I am against retro bolting unless the FA party agrees on the addition or moving of bolts.

Additional note: 

It is all a game, we strive to do our best, sometimes we fail and sometimes we do better than we hoped.  All the above has happened at the Pinnacles over the years, some of it good and some of it not so good.  I myself have done good, bad and indifferent. Try to establish good routes, respect the rock, the park and others as much as possible.

Pinnacles Guidebook Excerpts

Pinnacles climbing started in 1933. Over the course of nearly 100 years climbing in the park has provided countless days of fun and adventure to thousands of people. It has created fascinating history…History making has stopped at Pinnacles in some ways though. History is no longer being made in the park by cutting edge climbing. Cutting edge difficulties have gotten into the 5.15 range and Pinnacles rock won’t support routes like that. History won’t be made by new methods for drilling bolts on lead either. Although a few refinements have been tried (mostly to allow one hand to hold a knob and a drill at the same time), the process of putting routes up with this ethic isn’t likely to change (on the other hand the very act of making routes this way has become rare enough that its continuation is itself historic). So, broad history, history that affects the sport of climbing as a whole, isn’t happening in the park anymore. Smaller, more local history does continue. It continues with the creation of new routes and by climbers having fun with numbers and making records.

First Ascent Ethics

Traditional ground-up first ascensionists emphasized adventure and uncertainty – the challenge of finding a way using only the natural features of the rock. They saw top-down methods as a way to place safety above adventure and over decades of history and tradition.  Ground-up climbers were concerned that mass production of climbing routes would quickly use up a limited resource and hugely impact the environment. Traditional climbers found rappel-bolting in particular to be revolting and not revolutionary.  On the other hand, top-down advocates thought that theirs was the best way to advance difficulty standards, that they were a “new wave,” the cutting edge. They felt that fun, well-protected climbs were the highest priority.

At Pinnacles, in the late 1980s, Climbers agreed that all existing Pinnacles routes, however established, would be left intact. In turn, Pinnacles would be recognized as a historic ground up climbing area where adventure and tradition would be embraced above pure safety or gymnastic difficulty. Since these discussions, almost all routes at Pinnacles have been put up, by consensus, from the ground-up, on lead, with bolts drilled by hand. Some exceptions have occurred, mostly the result of ignorance or arrogance, but to date the consensus has held remarkably well. Adventure survives at Pinnacles, and those who climb there frequently continue to embrace the ground-up ethic.

Setting aside the question of tradition and adventure versus convenience, the ground-up ethic has worked well at Pinnacles for another reason. Pinnacles is a small area. It is close to the San Francisco Bay Area, and therefore heavily used by all types of outdoor enthusiasts.  First ascents aside, one constraint seems agreeable to all Park visitors: try not to trash the place. This idea of treading lightly to preserve the resource is very well served by the slower pace of route development compelled by a ground-up approach. In fact, the approach works so well that the Park Service is likely to require ground-up route development in its (not-yet-finished) Pinnacles Climbing Management Plan (drilling by hand – not by motorized means – is already required by federal law).

Existing Route Ethics

Leaving existing routes as they were created has long been an absolute norm in American climbing, a universally-accepted rule. One exception has always applied to the rule though: members of the first ascent party – the route creators – may change

its setup/bolt pattern if they wish to (although in practice this rarely happens). Otherwise, routes are left alone.

Thankfully, adding bolts to existing routes hasn’t been a significant problem at Pinnacles. Hopefully that will remain the case; the best advice for climbers here is: do not add bolts to existing routes. Practically speaking, it does nothing but make all

climbs generic repeats of each other, safe alike for the masses. Instead, improve yourself to master a climb or find something else to do

Smaller Ethical Questions

First is the use of aid. While some of the most admired pitches at Pinnacles were put up on lead while drilling from “free stance,” many great routes were drilled ground-up while hanging on aid.  From hooks and pitons to tied-off knobs and trees, many types of aid have been used by leaders while drilling on lead. Using aid on first ascents is consistent with the ground-up ethic and is well accepted at Pinnacles.

Second is the establishment of routes more difficult than 5.12. Some climbers maintain that somewhere in the 5.12s, hooking possibilities and tie-off knobs start to disappear and “other means” are justified. In addition to smacking of elitism, this process leads to a slippery slope that probably is not worth it. Who draws the line with this argument? Are 5.13 climbers so exalted that they can ignore consensus to do as they please? Which is the greater value at Pinnacles, safety or adventure? Will Pinnacles

become generic like many other climbing areas, or will it remain an area admired for high standards and bold climbing?

The last of the smaller ethical issues involves what has been called the “10 meter rule.” Pinnacles has thousands of short faces and boulders, all of which could potentially be bolted and climbed. Since the early days, Pinnacles climbers have used a rule of thumb to the effect that faces shorter than 10 meters just are not worth bolting. Exceptions exist, but before drilling a bolt (or two or three) on a short little section of rock, ask yourself if it is really something significant enough to bother with.

Note also that, to some degree, ethics issues blend eventually into access issues.

Generative AI

At Pinnacles National Park, bolting ethics emphasize a tradition of “ground-up” first ascents, meaning bolts are placed from the bottom of the climb rather than being rappel-placed. Power drills are also not permitted, with hand tools used for bolting. There’s a strong emphasis on using appropriate bolt types and ensuring bolts are replaced when necessary, often with a focus on using 5-piece Rawl expansion bolts or similar climbing-specific bolts, according to the National Park Service. The goal is to minimize impact on the rock while ensuring safe and enjoyable climbing experiences. 

Here’s a more detailed breakdown:

• Ground-up First Ascents:
  The long-standing tradition is to place bolts while ascending the climb, rather than rappel-placing them from above. 
• No Power Drills:
  Hand tools must be used for all bolting activities, as stated by the National Park Service. 
• Bolt Types and Replacement:
  Appropriate bolt types, such as 5-piece Rawl expansion bolts or similar, are encouraged, according to the National Park Service. When replacing bolts, they should be replaced with equally strong and durable alternatives. 
• Respect for the Rock:
  There’s a general understanding that bolts should be placed sparingly and thoughtfully, with a focus on minimizing impact on the natural environment. 

Safety and Enjoyment:
The overall goal is to ensure both the safety of climbers and the enjoyment of the climbing experience, while also respecting the natural beauty and integrity of the park.

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