TL;DR Pinnacles climbing has had a long standing tradition to bolt ground up on lead. However, there has also been a culture where people who did not adhere to the tradition, by using the top-down approach, got called out and often driven out of the Pinnacles climbing scene. The tradition deserves its respect and is […]
A questionnaire was sent to a few relatively recent or current route developers at Pinnacles about their understanding of bolting ethics in Pinnacles, and if anything changes if a variation is being bolted. I might have had some obsolete email addresses. In the end, I received responses from six people. I will call them Developers […]
Tada! I present to you… the Shortie Stick! Whether you’re a proud shortie or a secret shortie-in-denial (we see you), this stick is here to rescue all climbers from those maddening, out-of-reach clips. The concept is simple: make any draw stiff enough to clip its gate through a bolt hanger without needing fingers to hold […]
I’ve been meaning to make this video for a few years. As far back as in 2021, a friend asked me about my thoughts on the Wide Boyz’s knee lock technique. I shared with him basically what I shared in the video. He, being the very analytical type (and a PhD!), agreed with me. That’s when […]
I was showing friends how to climb this crack that starts off too wide for small fists and regular foot jams, which is typical of 4 inch cracks. A friend took this video. I’m putting it out there for anyone who might be interested. There are many other ways. Even with this one way, you […]